Butterfly shaped, Mali is a country of contradictions. One half of the land is covered in green savannah whilst the other by the vast Sahara. A lively black population inhabits the former whilst the subdued Tuaregs in the latter.
You witness a stretch Hummer gliding past a deformed leper; Burka clad market women and bursting cleavages in swanky bars; fetish stalls next to a Grande Mosquée. Mali is the crossroards of African culture where subsaharan Africa meets the north, the east meets the west.
The different tribes of Mali (and West Africa) who once fought to carve out their territory are now "joking cousins" each with their own musical, dance, and culinary traditions. We started our stay in Mali by paying a visit to one of the many fascinating tribes - the Dogon.
The Dogon preserved their tribe from neighbouring aggressors by nestling themselves in a 200km long escarpment that provides a natural fort. These people were not interested in conquering but living peacefully. Due to their isolation, the Dogon have preserved much of their heritage, such as their fascinating cosmology and rituals. Sadly, we had the sense that we had met the last generation who are still practicing their traditional beliefs. As a consequence of modernity, tourism and modern religions (Christianity, Islam) penetrating from outside, Dogon country will soon be a legendary tale.
In the last two decades, the Dogon people have chosen to live in the lower plains where water and grazing lands for the cattle is more accessable. The traditional abodes nestled in the gaps of the escarpment have thus been abondoned, collectors grabbing the famous carved doors and the rain slowly washing away the the ancient mud walls.
On our arrival, we were given news that a wealthy Dogon businessman was throwing a three day party - a cultural festival of costumes, dance and concerts. A celebration of heritage in a fast changing world.
We were thrilled at the timing of events. We postponed our five day trek through villages in the escarpment. For two days we enjoyed mask parades, dancing and music. We could now start the trek with a good idea about Dogon tradition.
The following five days we endured the intensity of Mali's sunshine and heat, walking early in the morning, resting at lunch, and continuing later in the afternoon. In five days we covered about a quarter of the escarpent visiting seven villages, a circumision site, rock formations and markets.
When we finished our trek we knew we had started our visit in Mali on a high. The remainder of places we visited in Mali - Djenné (a town and its huge Mosque constructed entirely out of mud), Mopti, Bamako (the lively and cosmopolitan capital) and Kayes - were interesting but didn't match the beauty and uniqueness of Dogon country.
So to borrow the Malian president's response to his Chinese counterpart's "chin chin" toast: "Mali Mali" to Dogons!!
